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1. DAY USHUAIA (54°56'S / 68°06'W)
Beautiful view from the plane across the Beagle Channel and glaciers -
we meet at the jetty of Afasyn- you choose your bunk and get familiar
with the boat - last big shopping for 4 weeks - sailing across the
Beagle Channel - we pass 'Isla dos Lobos': Sea Lions and
Cormorants.
2. DAY PUERTO WILLIAMS (54°56'S / 67°36'W)
We anchor at 'Seno Lauro', the best natural harbour of this region -
the wreck of the 'Micalvi' is our jetty and provides at the same time
all harbour facilities: pub and shower - here are a handful of boats
tied off already, getting ready for Antarctica or just coming down from
the Chilean Channels - Yamana Indians - Martin Gusinde Museum - last
shower at Micalvi.
3. DAY PUERTO TORO (55°05'S / 67°06'W)
Laid back Puerto Williams - 1200 inhabitants - high military presence
but totally out of date - no private telephone lines - sailing the
Beagle Channel - Puerto Toro: most southern settlement of the world -
50 inhabitants - dealing one bottle of whisky for a couple of buckets
full of King Crabs - detailed weather analysis for the right moment to
cross the Drake.
4.-7. DAY DRAKE PASSAGE
It can get tough - Albatross and Cape Pigeon join the 'Sarah' - daily
radio contact with the other yachts and Antarctic weather stations -
reaching the Antarctic convergence zone: polar waters with greenish
colour and lots of life - who sees the first iceberg? - continuous
watch for growlers and icebergs.
8.-9. DAY MELCHIOR ISLANDS (64°20S / 630°00W )
We made it - we arrive at Antarctica: the coldest, loneliest, driest,
most isolated, most peaceful of all continents, only two percent are
not covered by ice - mountain ranges reach 2000 metres - Fur Seal
colonies - Sea Leopards on floating iceshells - flashing white of the
icebergs and crystal-blue polar water.
10. DAY FALSE BAY
Adelie-, Gentoo- and Chinstrappenguins - they can dive up to 300 metres
deep and swim up to 36 km/hour - Crabeater Seals - navigation gets
different because we can't see the real coastlines of the islands, so
chart navigation is difficult.
11. - 12. DAY PARADISE BAY (64°55S / 63°00W)
Big chance to see whales: Minke and Humpback Whales - they often come
close to the boat - Chilean station Videla , Cormorant colonies -
Gentoo colonies - dinghy trips - incredible scenery
13. DAY PETERMAN ISLAND (65°10S / 64°05W)
LeMaire Channel: very narrow channel with 1000 metre high stone walls,
sometimes a huge iceberg gets stuck in the middle of the channel -
Petermann Island: many Sea Leopards and Sea Elephants.
14. DAY VERNADSKY STATION (65°15S / 64°15W)
The passage to Vernadsky is not charted, therefore we put the dinghy in
front of the 'Sarah' and look for a safe passage - Vernadsky (Ukraine):
15 men in summer, 10 during the winter, former English station. Base
members get a supply ship twice a year only - we bring eggs and cheese
from Chile - sauna, pub, discussions.
15.-16. DAY PORT LOCKROY (64°55S / 63°30W)
We head north to one of the best anchorages of Antarctica - good chance
to meet another yacht or cruise ship - at the English station we can
post our polar post - good opportunity to hike up the glacier with our
snow shoes.
17. DAY PALMER STATION (64°45S / 64°00'W)
If we are lucky we get permission to visit the American base - totally
different set-up: thorough biology research - we could even phone back
home - American atmosphere.
18. DAY GERLACHE STRAIT
We should see Humpback Whales: they are inquisitive and could easily
stay for ˝ hour with us, we get the dinghy in the water, they approach
us and come very close, they dive below the ''Sarah' and play.
19. DAY ENTERPRISE ISLAND (64°20'S / 61°10'W)
'Antarctic Marina': a wrecked whaling boat is our jetty - from the nearby waterfall we tap water and fill up our tanks.
20. DAY GAMMA ISLAND (64°20S / 630°00W )
Last opportunity for extensive dinghy tours - preparation for the Drake
- if the group wishes and the weather allows it we can make a detour to
Deception Island: the island is vulcanic, big parts are covered by
black lava sand - ruins of an abandoned whaling station.
21.-24. DAY DRAKE PASSAGE
We should see the passage with different eyes now; its all much more
familiar - sea birds accompany us again - we head for Cape Horn.
25. DAY CAPE HORN (55°50'S / 67°18'W)
"The classic aspect of Cape Horn is the cliff face to the southern
headland. Well below its summit, the old lighthouse I saw burning back
in 1977, still stands, but shines no more below the clouds. On exposed
rocks, a mile offshore, the sea breaks heavily even on a calm day, as
the rollers coming in from the Southern Ocean pile up on shelf water,
75 miles away to the south-west." (Skip Novak: 'Cape Horn cloaked in
mystery')
Cape of the ultimate challenge - many destinies and catastrophes have
taken place here - symbol for the end of the world. - visit to the
island: Chilean navy control post -passport satmps- chapel - monument -
wildlife - deep tussock grass.
26. DAY ROUNDING OF CAPE HORN
Sail around Cape Horn - excursion to other islands of the Wollaston group - anchor at Bahia Scourfield.
27. DAY PUERTO WILLIAMS (54°56'S / 67°36'W)
Back to civilisation after 4 weeks of near isolation - showers and
shopping - trekking - we pick up our Cape Horn certificates from the
navy post.
28. DAY USHUAIA (54°56'S / 68°06'W)
Last sail across the Beagle - fresh bread and cheese - transport to the airport.
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